ESTHER HAASE (German, born 1966)
*The Fearless Lola Walking the Lion King, Miami*, for *Stern,* 1999
Pigment print, printed 2018

Written by Caroline Johnson
Copyedited by Chloë Rain

Photo edited by Alanna Reid

The Norton Museum of Art’s current exhibition, A Personal View on High Fashion & Street Style: Photographs from the Nicola Erni Collection, 1930s-Now, provides viewers with an exceptional view into the world of fashion through famed Swiss art collector, Nicola Erni. Over the past twenty years, Erni has acquired works, resulting in her possession of the largest photography collection in private hands. This amazing collection has a strong foundation of fashion photographs, 250 of which are included in this exhibition. The collection covers an extensive span of years, including contemporary street style fashion photography. Including these allows the exhibition to display historically acclaimed high fashion photography next to the more candid and urban street fashion through contemporary photographers.

HORST P. HORST (American, born Germany, 1906 – 1999)
*Lisa as V.O.G.U.E*, for US Vogue, 1940
Gelatin silver print, printed later
17 15/16 x 13 7/8 in. (45.6 x 35.2 cm)
Nicola Erni Collection
Horst P. Horst, Vogue © Condé Nast
Photo: Reto Pedrini Photography

The exhibition is not focused on the chronological aspect of how fashion has changed, but by theme, inviting the viewer to understand the ‘binding themes and synergies’ that the photographs express, regardless of their creation date. Erni’s collection reflects her personal taste, resulting in her personal style and preference emanating throughout the entire exhibition. Her dedication to the collection, both historical and current, includes a wide variety of photographers, all of whom were trailblazers and trend-setters in their respective time, from traditional fashion photography through street style and photography.

American photographer Irving Penn’s work for Vogue in the 1940’s is a great example of the early, yet poignant, fashion photography on display in this exhibition. His photography moved away from the pre-existing expectations within the world of fashion photography. Instead of photographing models in overly decorated and intricate backgrounds, he created photographs of simple backgrounds and a focus on the figure. His lack of color shows the importance of the shape of the garment and of the model, highlighting the fit, rather than the color. Additionally, these elements combined create a feeling of high art, establishing an iconic composition and timeless imagery.

VIVIAN MAIER (American, 1926 – 2009)
*Untitled,* 1954
11 7/8 x 11 15/16 in. (30.2 x 30.4 cm)
Posthumous gelatin silver print, printed 2017
Edition 2 of 15
Nicola Erni Collection
© Estate of Vivian Maier, Courtesy Maloof Collection and Howard Greenberg
Gallery, New York
Photo: Reto Pedrini Photography

Vivian Maier’s work echoes back to Irving Penn’s through the less ornate background and lack of color. Yet, this particular photograph is unique in the sense that it doesn’t include the face of the model, but the reaction that the model’s outfit evokes in other people in this scene. The reactionary nature of this photograph illuminates the power of fashion and the chances being taken by this model and designer. This work builds upon the groundwork of fashion photography, moving forward and testing the extent of what the conjunction of fashion and photography can achieve.

JOEL MEYEROWITZ (American, born 1938)
*Florida,* 1967
Dye transfer print, printed 2015
Edition 3 of 10
14 7/16 x 21 5/8 in. (36.6 x 54.9 cm)
Nicola Erni Collection
© Joel Meyerowitz, Courtesy Howard Greenberg Gallery
Photo: Reto Pedrini Photography

The idea of capturing reactions to fashion is seen in Joel Meyerowitz’s work. This contemporary street style fashion photographer experiments with intense cropping of scenes to increase the idea of mystery. His figures are looking away from the camera. The women obviously looking at someone or something taking place outside of the frame. The man in the car is cropped, so the viewer is unable to see his face or the majority of his body. Yet, the way he is sitting insinuates he is looking at the women while they are unaware or distracted. This interaction between the figures forces the viewer's eye to travel back and forth throughout the photograph, examining the entire scene and the style of all people involved.

AMY ARBUS (American, born 1954)
*Flip Family*, 1987
Vintage gelatin silver print
Edition 3 of 25
17 15/16 x 12 3/8 in. (45.5 x 31.5 cm)
Nicola Erni Collection
Courtesy of the artist and CLAMP, New York.

Amy Arbus utilizes the background for movement, as well as cropping her image, to create an intense focus on her figures. Two individuals with their dog poke fun at the stereotypes of fashion, highlighting the limited perception of society’s unspoken type-casting through attire. Her photograph uses artistic elements to create an aesthetic, yet satirical image. Her way of capturing the juxtaposition between the expected lifestyle of these individuals against the euphemism on the dog’s clothing show the power fashion has in creating a standardized narrative for each individual. By highlighting the power that fashion photography possesses, viewers are also able to better understand its effect on society. This not only shows the progression of fashion photography, but also the importance and depth of the collection.

ARTHUR ELGORT (American, born 1940)
*Romance: Christian Lacroix Haute Couture Atelier in Paris,*
for House & Garden, 1988
Pigment print, printed 2020
Edition 2 of 10
72 7/16 x 55 15/16 in. (184 x 142.1 cm)
Nicola Erni Collection
Arthur Elgort, House & Garden © Condé Nast.
Photo: Reto Pedrini Photography

Through the combination of time periods and various photographers, the evolution, power and growth in the genre of fashion photography is made clear. Throughout time, the medium has influenced change in art and in society. With the constant evolution in fashion and art, fashion photography has consistently proven its relevance and importance, perfectly displayed through this exhibition.

A Personal View on High Fashion & Street Style: Photographs from the Nicola Erni Collection, 1930s-Now is on view at the Norton Museum through February 12, 2023.