FALLING IN LOVE WITH PORTUGAL

A dynamic cultural revival is making this storied city the most exhilarating city to visit now... Text and Photos by Rose Hartman

I have traveled around the world for years. Why did I wait so long to visit Portugal? Last month, I spent 15 days exploring surprising Lisbon and taking easy day trips.

Once the capitol of a far-reaching empire stretching from South America to Asia, Lisbon has transformed from a capitol of faded glory to an exhilarating place to visit (helped, in part by a new set of travelers and international investors. Most famous, of course, is pop legend Madonna who has bought a home in one of the continent’s most poetic and beautiful capitols. (Other expats are buying second homes in a country known for its golden sunshine and safety)

Today, Lisbon is the hub of fine cultural institutions, edgy boutiques, chic, late night rooftop bars, seafood feasts, wine tastings, smart hotels and landmarks both Old World beautiful and Futuristic (filled with galleries, museums, and underground music venues, and a newly thriving tech scene). There is also an expat influence (Madonna, Christian Louboutin, and product designer Philippe Starck, among others) that is driving up real estate prices.

Each morning, I lace up a pair of sneakers (no one would dare traverse the twisty cobblestone streets in high heels), and explore (sometimes aimlessly) this 7- hilled city.

Around every corner, I discover either dazzling, tile-covered buildings, ornate cathedrals, and charming shops that mesmerize even the most jaded world traveler

For a change of pace, I jump on tram 28 for a trip through Lisbon’s vibrant areas, a combination of muscle-shredding inclines and restorative declines such as historic Barrio Alto( during the day, it is a calm place highlighted by quirky boutiques and art galleries,, while at night, it belongs to frenzied club -goers who often party til dawn in and outside trendy clubs, and Alfama, a working-class neighborhood punctuated by narrow streets, curving alleys, under low archways, up houses painted in yellow, pink and blue. I stop at one of the many and lookout sites, (miradors) that offer breathtaking views of red-tiled roofs leading down to the Tagus River.

Each day, I would choose another area to explore: one of my favorites is Chiado (an area of artisanal shops (selling everything from candle-making to gorgeous, sleek, hand-made gloves., proper hotels, and a wide variety of restaurants where fresh-caught seafood raw, cured and marinated tempt passerbys.

Sunday is given over to to the Feira da Ladra (Campo de Santa Clara), a dawn- to- dusk flea market perfect for finding handmade, Portuguese linens, Expresso cups from old cafes, and much more.

Southwest of the city center is Belem, defined by its landmarks, the Jeronimos Monastery, MAAT (the Museum of Art, Architecture, and Technology) in gleaming white tile, and the spectacular, not-to-be-missed museum filled with the modern and contemporary collection of Colecao Berado, and the imposing Adjuca Palace.

Less than an hour by train is Cascais, a popular resort fronting the Atlantic Ocean where locals and tourists work on their suntan., participate in water sports, and enjoy seafood in restaurants edging the sea. A 20-minute stroll leads to El Boca de Inferno, the most western part of Europe where waves smash against rocky formations.

Other remarkable day trips should include Sintra, with its fairy-tale Pena Palace and Evora, a walled city perfect for strolling.

IF YOU GO:

Located in the center of the city, I was fortunate enough to stay at the charming Palacio das Esperiarias, a former palace that has been meticulously restored. The staff is more than accommodating, and the buffet breakfast very satisfying.

For those travelers who favor minimal design and must have a swimming pool, The 4-star Memmo Alfama Hotel is highly recommended., and close to a variety of restaurants and featuring fado, its achingly beautiful folk music.

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