Written and Photo Edited by Wenjie (Demi) Zhao

Copy Edited by Kee’nan Haggen

In the realm of fashion, where the transient dances with the eternal, the Met Fifth Avenue’s exhibition, Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty, sings a melodic tribute to the legendary couturier. This posthumous retrospective, on display until July 16, 2023, is a testament to Lagerfeld’s sartorial genius that spanned over six decades, weaving a narrative from the language of haute couture.

With over 200 meticulously crafted garments and corresponding sketches, the exhibition delves into Lagerfeld’s unparalleled creativity. The collection traces the influence of William Hogarth’s 18th-century treatise, “The Analysis of Beauty,” offering an immersive experience into Lagerfeld’s innovative design philosophy for Chanel, Fendi, and his own label.

*Dress*, House of CHANEL (French, founded 1910), Spring-Summer 2019 Haute Couture; Courtesy Patrimoine de CHANEL, Paris.
Image courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Photo © Julia Hetta

*Sketch of CHANEL dress*, Spring-Summer 2019 Haute Couture; Courtesy Patrimoine de CHANEL, Paris.
Image courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art

The exhibition provides an extraordinary glimpse into Lagerfeld’s transformative work at Fendi. On display are avant-garde silhouettes, daringly sculpted, audaciously colored, and intricately threaded to resemble lace, showcasing Lagerfeld’s unconventional approach to fabrics as a versatile element of high fashion. His reimagining of Chanel’s classic tweed suit is a vibrant symphony of pioneering cuts, bold colors, and unexpected materials. His renditions of the little black dress, each a unique blend of Coco Chanel’s spirit and Lagerfeld’s innovation, elevate this staple into a form of high art.

Gallery View, *Satirical Line*
Photo © The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Throughout his remarkable career, Lagerfeld demonstrated a distinctive ability to interpret and infuse street style into high-end fashion. He understood the crucial role of fashion’s continuous evolution and its cyclic nature, drawing creative fuel from the energetic, diverse, and unfiltered aesthetic of streetwear. Lagerfeld brought an innovative touch to his designs for prestigious labels such as Chanel and Fendi. He blended elements of streetwear — like graphic t-shirts, exaggerated forms, Rock’n' Roll vibes, and distressed denim — with the elegance of luxury fashion. This amalgamation led to pioneering designs that were simultaneously opulent and relatable, successfully bridging the gap between the runway and everyday wear.

*Sketch of CHANEL coat*, Fall-Winter 2017/18 Haute Couture; Courtesy Patrimoine de CHANEL, Paris.
Image courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Lagerfeld’s designs are a harmonious clash of contrasts — the masculine and the feminine, the modest and the extravagant, the vintage and the futuristically modern. His compositions draw equally from the straight lines and serpentine curves. The audacity of a daring slit in an evening gown, the fluidity of a gracefully draped silhouette — these elements showcase Lagerfeld’s masterful manipulation of lines in his designs. In this juxtaposition of the bold and the delicate, Lagerfeld found a captivating balance, where ornate and minimalist aesthetics coexist in perfect harmony.

Gallery View, *Classical Line*
Photo © The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Gallery View, *Canonical Line*
Photo © The Metropolitan Museum of Art

The exhibition’s set design, masterminded by the renowned architect Tadao Ando, complements this duality. The tranquil austerity of Ando’s signature concrete walls forms an ideal backdrop for Lagerfeld’s designs, which gleam against the minimalistic setting. Partitioned into walkable sections, each segment represents a distinct theme in Lagerfeld’s design portfolio, exploring the full spectrum of his stylistic versatility.

*Runway image of CHLOÉ “Rachmaninoff” dress*, spring/summer 1973.
Image courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Photo © Jean-Luce Huré

Gallery View, *Ornamental Line*
Photo © The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Gallery View, *The Puppet and Ellipse*
Photo © The Metropolitan Museum of Art

From his earliest designs in the 1950s to his final collection in 2019, Lagerfeld’s brilliance expanded far beyond fashion, enveloping illustration, photography, costume design, and more. His chosen language, lines, metamorphosed from ephemeral sketches into tangible reality. This visual sonnet, composed of haute couture, sketches, and architecture, presents a rare chance to delve into Lagerfeld’s extensive body of work that surpasses the confines of fashion. Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty is an invitation to immerse oneself in the cadence of creativity and to acknowledge the profound beauty embedded in Lagerfeld’s legacy.