@Gösta Peterson. *Mademoiselle*, January 1964. Gelatin silver print, printed 1964, 16 x 20" (40.6 x 50.8 cm). Signed & annotated in pencil on verso. ©Gösta Peterson, courtesy to the artist and Deborah Bell Photographs

Written by Mandi Smith

Photo edited by Billy Chen

Copy edited by Robyn Hager

This exhibition marks the first time Gösta Peterson's fashion photographs from the 1960s and 1970s will be displayed since his passing. Peterson was a trailblazer in the fashion photography industry, famous for his work on the covers of major publications such as Harper's Bazaar, Mademoiselle, and The New York Times. He gained popularity for photographing British model Twiggy upon her arrival in the United States in 1967 and Naomi Sims, the first African-American female model to grace the cover of The New York Times fashion supplement in the same year. His iconic photographs of two of the industry's most significant supermodels cemented his position as one of the greatest fashion photographers of his generation.

@Gösta Peterson. Naomi Sims for The New York Times FASHIONS OF THE TIMES, Sunday, August 27, 1967. Archival inkjet print, printed 2014, 14-3/8 x 11" (36.5 x 27.9 cm), signed in pencil on verso. ©Gösta Peterson, courtesy to the artist and Deborah Bell Photographs

Gösta Peterson's approach to photography transcended the realm of editorial pieces for fashion magazines as he viewed his work as a true art form. When experimentation and staging were prevalent among photographers and art directors in the 1960s and 1970s, Peterson's creative vision flourished, and his unique flair allowed him to break fashion rules and trends. His avant-garde and iconic artwork captured the playful compositions of his models, resulting in an innovative approach to high fashion characterized by improvisation and an informal, personal style that endeared him to the fashion industry. Peterson photographed for major fashion magazines with supermodels donning couture garments from influential designers such as Pierre Cardin, Comme des Garçons, Fendi, Rudi Gernreich, Halston, Ralph Lauren, Pucci, Sonia Rykiel, and Yves Saint Laurent. He was also a pioneer in creating special effects by photographing with the shutter open while "drawing" on and around his subject with a strobe light, producing some of the first images of long exposure light art.

@Gösta Peterson. Harper's Bazaar (Portugal), 1966. Gelatin silver print, printed 2005, 11 x 14" (27.9 x 35.6 cm). Signed & titled in pencil on verso. ©Gösta Peterson, courtesy to the artist and Deborah Bell Photographs

Peterson did not limit himself to fashion photography, he also made significant contributions to street photography during the 1960s and 1970s. His unique style of using a wide-angle lens and black-and-white film to capture candid and spontaneous moments in the everyday lives of New Yorkers set him apart from his contemporaries. Peterson's photographs have been exhibited in various galleries and publications, including Life magazine, and are held in museum collections worldwide, such as the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, and the Detroit Institute of Arts.

*@Gösta Peterson. Mademoiselle*, May 1964 issue. Archival inkjet print, 17 x 14" (43.2 x 35.6 cm), signed in pencil on verso. ©Gösta Peterson, courtesy to the artist and Deborah Bell Photographs

@Gösta Peterson. Mademosielle, December 1968. Archival inkjet print, printed 2014, 14-3/8 x 11" (36.5 x 27.9 cm). Signed in pencil on verso. ©Gösta Peterson, courtesy to the artist and Deborah Bell Photographs

Gösta Peterson's unconventional and innovative approach has left an indelible mark on the industry, shaping the layout and experimentation of contemporary fashion magazines. The Deborah Bell Photographs exhibition is a tribute to Peterson's unparalleled work, commemorating his pioneering impact on the fashion industry. As if stepping back in time, visitors can appreciate the artistry of one of the most significant photographers of the 20th century, seeing the era through Peterson’s visionary lens.

For more information, visit Deborah Bell Photographs’ website.