Book Review: Dior by Sarah Moon
© Sarah Moon. Papillon, Christian Dior. Afternoon dress, Spring/Summer 1948. © Christian Dior. Courtesy of Delpire & Co. Publishing.
Writer: Sophie Mulgrew
Editor: Robyn Hager
Photo Editor: Haley Winchell
When thinking about fashion, it is easiest and most familiar to consider simply clothes themselves; their style, texture, form, and material; the manner in which they lay across the body's curves or decorate its bare skin. As consumers, we’re familiar with approaching fashion and clothing as objects of desire - something to be purchased, acquired, made our own. It is more rare that we consider the clothes themselves as art, or indeed, that we consider the practice of their presentation as a form of artistic expression. See here: fashion photography. Without photographic rendering, online shopping, magazines, store ads, social media tags, resale apps, and more would not exist. Photography, then, is essential to the way we think about and interact with clothing.
Sarah Moon’s “Dior” photo book collection is a representation of the most beautiful and artistic methodology of fashion photography. Her work turns away from the more consumer-focused imagery that we are familiar with and instead prioritizes artistry. She focuses on the way the clothing interacts with her subjects and composition, rather than whether or not her viewers will be enticed to purchase a particular item. The collection is an important reminder of the inherent beauty of clothing, and the camera’s ability to create striking art from it.
© Sarah Moon. John Galliano for Christian Dior Suit, Spring/Summer 1999. © Christian Dior. Courtesy of Delpire & Co. Publishing.
Moon entered her career in fashion working in front of the camera rather than behind it. She began as a model in 1960, but switched to full time photography and film-making in 1968. Since then, her work has been published in countless magazines including Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, and Life. Additionally. Moon has been awarded both the International Center of Photography's Infinity Award for Applied Photography and the Grand Prix National de la Photographie. The “Dior” book collection is Moon’s latest project, published by Delpire & Co. in November of 2022.
The collection is separated into three distinct volumes. The first is a series of staged black and white images of the same model (Andrea Gutiérrez) in a variety of different outfits. Though the images are stylistically very similar to one another, they vary in setting, composition, and subtle visual detail. The second book includes colored images and focuses on shots of Dior’s archival collections. It includes images of the clothes taken on models as well as mannequins – in the workshop, and out of it. The final book of the collection is an exploration of Moon’s working partnership with Dior’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri. The volume contains Moon’s more recent work, revealing how her style has evolved over time and in congruence with the Dior aesthetic.
© Sarah Moon. Sahara, Maria Grazia Chiuri for Christian Dior. Coat dress, Autumn/Winter 2017. © Christian Dior. Courtesy of Delpire & Co. Publishing.
Throughout each volume, Moon’s distinct photographic style is evident. She works intentionally with blur and color (or lack thereof) and takes particular care in creating unusual combinations of line and shadow. In addition to fashion, Moon is also interested in architecture, and it shows in her work. Each book contains the occasional image of a building, staircase, or other architectural feature. The different photos work in conversation with one another - highlighting the structural aspects of Dior’s clothing and the interest Moon takes in capturing them. The three book collection is a wonderful and comprehensive look at Moon’s photographic relationship with Dior, and a stunning representation of the art of fashion photography.
To purchase the book, visit Delpire & Co.
