Film Review: 'Salvatore: Shoemaker of Dreams' (2022)
Photo: ©Archivio Giuseppe Palmas / Courtesy of Sony Pictures Classics
Written by Belle McIntyre
Dir. LUCA GUADAGNINO
This extraordinary biopic of a poor boy growing up in a small Italian village called Bonito, the eleventh of fourteen children, who founds a shoe empire which is now legendary, is an homage to the determination and dedication to what can only be understood as a calling. Born just before the 20th century, Salvatore was fascinated by and experimenting with shoemaking before the age of ten, creating shoes for his sisters. He had to overcome the condescending attitude of his parents to the profession of shoemaker, until they relented and allowed him to go
to Naples to apprentice at the age of twelve. His apprenticeship was brief due to his skill and understanding of the craft. He had opened his own shoe shop before he was 15 years old, younger than all of his employees. He finds his way to America at sixteen and works in a factory in Boston to learn the American way of manufacturing and then heads west to Santa Barbara and sets up shop with two
of his brothers.
Santa Barbara was where the film industry was burgeoning and he was quickly able to establish himself as the most sought after shoe designer for all of the stars of the silver screen, known for his perfectionism and sophisticated designs which were not only flattering but comfortable. By the time the film industry and Salvatore moved to Hollywood, his client list, many of whom became friends, had expanded to jet-setters and wealthy socialites and he was established and successful. He experienced some setbacks but was ultimately able to create a high end manufacturing business in Florence which continues to this day and is run by the family.
Guadagnino was given access to all of the notebooks, letters, photographs and the story is mostly told using archival footage and voice over narration from his
own writings. There are the obligatory talking heads – Manolo Blanick, Laboutin, Suzy Menkes, Grace Coddington and the like. It is an affectionate portrait of an amazing and tenacious talent who seems so unaffected by his success and holds onto the things which have always been important. He finds a love match and has a family which appears to be the source of great happiness. It is a beautiful story which is bookended by some charming directorial flourishes involving shoemaking processes as well as a Busby Berkely- style review of Ferragamo’s most innovative and iconic shoe styles. I did not know that he is credited with creating the platform shoe and what a beauty it is.
Photo: ©Alinari / Courtesy of Sony Pictures Classics
