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Issue No. 16 - Chaos

ZED NELSON

Image Above: ©Zed Nelson (Miss Essex. Loser. Miss England Competition. Leicester, UK)

ZED NELSON is London-based photographer. Nelson began his career as a documentary photographer, which earned him international recognition and several awards including the Visa d’Or at the Interna- tional Festival of Photojournalism. Since then, Nelson’s work has become increasingly conceptual and focused on contemporary Western society. His first book of photographs reflecting this shift is Gun Nation, exploring America’s deadly love affair with the firearms. Released in 2000, the project won numer- ous prizes including the Alfred Eisenstaedt Award. Love Me, his second book, reflects on the cultural and commercial forces that drive a global obsession with youth and beauty. Published in 2009, Love Me was nominated for the Deutsche Börse Photography Prize and won Best Photography Book Award at the 2010 Pictures of the Year Awards. Nelson’s most recent book, ‘A Portrait of Hackney’ was published in 2014.

Love Me: Introduction

Beauty is a $160 billion-a-year global industry. The worldwide pursuit of body improvement has become a new religion.

We live in a society that celebrates and iconizes youth, where the old, the aesthetically average and the fat seem to have been erased from the pages of our glossy magazines, advertising posters and television screens. The promise of bodily improvement is fuelled by advertising campaigns and a commercially-driven Western media, reflecting an increasingly narrow palette of beauty. The modern Caucasian beauty ideal has been packaged and exported globally, and just as surgical operations to 'Westernise' oriental eyes have become increasingly popular, so the beauty standard has become increasingly prescriptive. In Africa the use of skin-lightening and hair-straightening products is widespread. In South America women have operations that bring them eerily close to the Barbie doll ideal, and blonde-haired models grace the covers of most magazines. Anorexia is on the increase in Japan, and in China, beauty pageants, once banned as 'spiritual pollution', are now held across the country.

1©Zed Nelson (Left: Katie, age 9. Winner. Universal Royalty Texas State. Pageant. Texas, USA.; Right: Christopher, 22. Chest wax. J. Sister’s salon. New York, USA.)

 

'Westernising' the human body has become a new form of globalisation, with 'Beauty' becoming a homogenous brand. The more rigorously our vision is trained to appreciate the artificial, the more industries benefit. The current standard of beauty feeds the fashion, cosmetics, diet, medical and entertainment industries, with the homogenisation of appearance becoming part of an increasingly globalised consumer culture.

But who creates this culture? However much we may confidently point the finger at certain industries, we can't deny our own tacit, albeit culturally conditioned, involvement. Like it or not, we are judged, and judge, by appearance. Perhaps we are obsessed with the way our own bodies look because we know how instinctively judgemental we are of the bodies that we look at.

2©Zed Nelson (Plastica & Beleza, ‘Plastic Surgery and Beauty Magazine’. Editorial meeting room. Sao Paulo, Brazil)

 

A recent scientific study reported that we make decisions about the attractiveness of people we meet in the space of 150 milliseconds. This superficial appraisal has profound implications. Those we consider most beautiful not only find sexual partners more readily but studies also show they get better jobs and more lenient treatment in court.

6©Zed Nelson (Ms. Olympia competition. Las Vegas, USA)

We have created a world in which there are enormous social, psychological and economic rewards and penalties attached to the way we look. Can any of us honestly say, 'I don't want to be attractive'? Don't we all want to be loved? But have we been brainwashed into believing that in order to be loved we need smaller noses, bigger breasts, tighter skin, longer legs, flatter stomachs and to appear ever youthful? Where does it end?

4©Zed Nelson (Ronnie Coleman, winner. Mr Olympia Competition. Las Vegas, USA)
 

The body has, in a sense, become just another consumer purchase. Everyone can, in the spirit of our age, go shopping for bodily transformation. Banks now offer loans for plastic surgery. American families with annual incomes under $25,000 account for 30 per cent of all cosmetic surgery patients. Americans spend more each year on beauty than they do on education.

As our role models become ever younger and more idealised, we are so afraid of aging that the quest for youthful preservation generates an almost pathological obsession with our bodies. As we align our sense of self-worth with self-image, the psychological and emotional consequences are tortuous. The one thing we do know for certain is that our body will always, in the end, betray us.

By Zed Nelson

(Text retrieved from: http://www.zednelson.com/?LoveMe:text)

LEON BORENSZTEIN: AMERICAN PORTRAITS AT FOLEY GALLERY

BEN WATTS: WATTSUP MONTAUK AT MILK GALLERY